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The lush tropical forest eventually gave way to large open
fields and rocky streams to cross. While walking through a grassy
field, we came across a teka, much like our local grouse. We
tried not to disturb her as we walked by. She let us get fairly
close, and then led us up the trail away from her nest, before
darting back to the spot where we first saw her. The stunning
scenery made you forget you were hiking 10 miles that day. It
took us about five hours to reach Mintaro Hut, including rest
stops. The hut is located at the base of Mckinnon Pass, which
we would hike up and over the next day. After taking our packs
and shoes off to relax on the deck, the hut ranger appeared
and recommended that we not stop, but rather hike to the top
of the pass that day while the views were clear. It was rare
he said to get two clear days in a row on the Milford Track.
After much cajoling from my wife, we booted up again, and
started hiking the steep wall of the pass gaining 1600 feet
and an extra four miles round-trip. The view at the top absolutely
took our breath away. You could see for miles, as hundreds of
peaks and valleys branched out in all directions. We relaxed
and soaked up the sunshine on top, before returning to Mintaro
Hut. It took about three hours round trip, and we got back in
plenty of time to make dinner and relax for a bit.
The evening was uneventful, and I awoke the next morning to
a pitter-patter noise and loud squawking coming from the roof.
I crawled out of my bunk to make my morning visit to the washroom,
and when I stepped outside, I found a group of playful keas
romping about. One kea was climbing to the top of the metal
roof, and sliding down to the bottom, only then to go back up
and repeat the ride again and again. Another was dangling from
the clothesline, while others chased each other around the bunkhouse
roof. I could have sat all morning being entertained by this
truly comical group of kea "kids".
It was overcast as we looked back up at Mckinnon Pass, and
we were glad we had taken the rangers advice and gone up yesterday.
The wind was blowing cold mist and fog as we neared the ridge.
We stopped just below the exposed top of the pass to put on
rain gear and warmer clothes. We couldn't see more than twenty
feet ahead, as we climbed up and over the pass. As we started
down the other side to the Arthur Valley, the wind subsided,
and the sky began to clear. The clouds lifted quickly, and on
the opposite side of the valley, we could see them rolling over
the ridge and down into the valley like a slow moving waterfall.
The sun was shining through the clouds, creating ethereal rays
darting down from heaven. Rarely had I seen anything so beautiful
in all my years of hiking.
At the base of Arthur Valley, we stopped and rested beside
a cool mountain stream. We soaked our feet and applied moleskin
to the hot spots on our soles to help prevent blistering. Today
we had planned to take a side path (approximately 1-1 1/2 hour
round trip) to Sutherland Falls, the fifth highest falls in
the world at 1903 feet. We were a little tired, and Tracy's
feet were sore enough that we almost opted to bypass the falls.
Fortunately we pushed each other to go. We could hear the falls
long before we could see it. As we hiked closer, the sound became
as loud as a jet plane taking off, and it created its own strong
wind long before we reached the base. At the base we could barely
hear each other talk, and the wind from the falls nearly knocked
you over. It was well worth the extra effort to see this magnificent
wonder of nature.
